Why isn't my oven heating?
Updated August 2026
An oven that stays cold or barely warms comes down to one part on each fuel type: on an electric oven, a burned-out bake element that no longer glows red; on a gas oven, a weak igniter that cannot open the safety valve. The electric element is a $20 to $60 part, the gas igniter $40 to $80, and both are among the most common oven repairs. When the heating part checks out, a failed temperature sensor or control board is the next suspect.
Safety first: two hazards make this one to respect. On a gas oven, an igniter too weak to light promptly lets raw gas flow into the cavity before it finally ignites, which can produce a startling whoomp; if your oven takes more than 90 seconds to light or you smell gas, stop using it and replace the igniter rather than relighting. On an electric oven, the bake element runs on 240 volts, so shut the double-pole breaker off before you unplug or replace it. If a gas smell lingers, leave the house and call the utility from outside.
Causes, most likely first
| Cause | How likely | The fix | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Burned-out bake element (electric) | Most common | Inspect the element for blisters, breaks, or spots that stay dark when powered. Replace the plug-in element. | $20–60 part |
| Weak oven igniter (gas) | Most common | The glow-bar igniter weakens with age and cannot draw enough current to open the gas valve. Replace it. | $40–80 part |
| Failed temperature sensor | Common | A bad oven sensor reports the wrong temperature, so the control never calls for full heat. A tech tests and swaps it. | $50–150 |
| Faulty control board or thermostat | Occasional | The electronic board or mechanical thermostat fails to send power to the element or valve. Replace the control. | $150–350 |
| Tripped breaker or lost 240V leg | Occasional | An electric oven that is fully dead may have lost one leg of its 240V feed. Reset the double-pole breaker. | Free |
Check these first
- Watch the oven through the door as it preheats. An electric element should glow bright orange along its whole length; dark or blistered spots mean it has failed.
- For a gas oven, look for the igniter to glow and the burner to light within about 90 seconds. A dim, slow glow that never lights means a weak igniter.
- Check the double-pole oven breaker. An electric oven that is completely dead, with no light or clock, may have lost half its 240V feed.
- Confirm the oven is not stuck in a delay-start, timer, or sabbath mode that holds off heating.
- Test with an oven thermometer. If it heats but runs far off the set temperature, suspect the sensor or calibration, not the element.
Prevent it next time
Oven heating parts wear out with use rather than neglect, but you can catch problems early. Verify accuracy with an oven thermometer and recalibrate the oven once a year, so a drifting sensor shows up before a holiday dinner does. Clean spills promptly and run the self-clean or manual clean as needed, since baked-on grease can coat the igniter and sensor. Elements and igniters typically last 5 to 10 years of regular cooking. On a range past its 15-to-20-year life that needs a control board, weigh the repair against a new one.
When to call a pro
A bake element is a common DIY swap, but call a pro when the oven has a gas-leak smell, when a new element or igniter does not restore heat (pointing to the sensor, valve, or control board), or when the oven is fully dead at the breaker. Diagnosis is $90–150, a sensor or igniter job $150–300, and a control board $200–400. For a gas oven, see our guide on a gas oven that clicks but will not light before deciding.
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Stop chasing symptoms, free for 30 daysFrequently asked questions
How do I know if my oven's heating element is bad?
Look and touch, safely. With the oven on bake, the element should glow bright orange evenly along its length within a couple of minutes. If part of it stays dark, or you see blistering, cracks, or a break in the metal loop, the element has failed. A dead element often has visible damage right where it burned out. You can also test it with a multimeter for continuity once the power is off. A failed bake element is a $20 to $60 part and a common swap.
Why does my oven heat but not get to temperature?
An oven that warms but never reaches the set temperature usually has a weak heating element, a failing temperature sensor, or a calibration that has drifted. On a gas oven, a tired igniter that glows but lights slowly also produces weak heat. Put an oven thermometer inside and compare it to the setting: if it is off by 25 to 50 degrees, recalibrate first. If it is far below the target or climbs painfully slowly, the element, igniter, or sensor is the likely fault.
Can I use the stovetop if the oven will not heat?
Usually yes. On most ranges the cooktop burners and the oven run on separate controls and, for gas models, separate igniters, so a dead oven often leaves the stovetop fully working. The main exception is a total power loss to the appliance, such as a tripped breaker or an unplugged unit, which kills both. If your surface burners light and heat normally while only the oven stays cold, that actually confirms the problem is in the oven's element, igniter, or control, not the supply.