Washing machine maintenance checklist

Updated August 2026

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Washer upkeep comes down to a monthly clean, wiping the door gasket and running a tub-clean cycle, and replacing the fill hoses every 5 years with braided stainless. Keep it level so it does not walk, glance at the hoses once a year, and a washer will run its 10–13-year life without either the musty smell or the burst-hose flood that tops home water-damage claims.

Every month
Task Interval Effort
Wipe the door gasket dry and check for mold Monthly 3 min · DIY
Run a tub-clean cycle with washer cleaner Monthly 5 min · DIY
Rinse the detergent and softener dispensers Monthly 3 min · DIY
Every 3 to 6 months
Task Interval Effort
Clear the drain-pump filter on a front-loader 3–6 months 10 min · DIY
Confirm the machine is level so it will not walk 3–6 months 5 min · DIY
Every year
Task Interval Effort
Inspect fill hoses for bulges, rust, and kinks Yearly 5 min · DIY
Check under and behind for slow leaks Yearly 5 min · DIY
Every 5 years
Task Interval Effort
Swap rubber fill hoses for braided stainless 5 years $20–40 DIY

What neglect costs

Two failures do the damage. A front-load door gasket that never gets wiped grows black mold in its folds, and that biofilm is what makes clean laundry smell sour no matter how much detergent you add. The bigger one is a supply hose: a rubber fill hose that cracks or blows off under constant pressure can pour water for hours before anyone notices, and washer-hose failures rank among the most common home flood claims, with the average water-damage bill running $5,000+. A machine left shaking and walking across the floor grinds its own bearings and can even yank those same hoses loose.

Leave these to a pro

Most of this list is DIY, but a few calls make sense. A loud grinding or thumping on the spin cycle usually means worn drum bearings, a repair that on many front-loaders runs $300–500 in labor and parts; on a washer already past 8 to 10 years, put that money toward a $600–1,300 replacement instead. A plumber is the right call to add a recessed washer box, a single-lever shutoff, or a drain pan under a second-floor laundry, roughly $150–300, cheap insurance against the leak that ruins a ceiling below.

This whole checklist ships as reminders in OnOtto: every task above, on the right schedule for your home, snooze-proof.

Load this checklist as reminders

Frequently asked questions

Why does my front-load washer smell musty?

Trapped moisture. Front-loaders seal tight, so water and detergent residue linger in the rubber door boot and the detergent drawer, and mold takes hold within weeks. Wipe the gasket dry after wash days, pull back its folds to clear hidden gunk, and run a monthly tub-clean cycle on the hottest setting with a washer cleaner or a cup of vinegar. Between loads, leave the door and the dispenser drawer cracked open so the drum can air out. Using too much detergent feeds the residue, so measure carefully.

How do I stop my washing machine from walking across the floor?

Level it first. Nudge the machine so all four feet sit firmly on the floor, then adjust the threaded feet until it does not rock when you push a corner, and lock the jam nuts. A washer that still bangs and walks is usually loading unbalanced, sitting on a springy floor, or missing its shipping-bolt removal, and on older units the internal shock absorbers or suspension rods can be worn. Left alone, that vibration loosens hose connections and grinds the bearings early.

Should I turn off the water to my washing machine?

At minimum before any trip of more than a day or two. The fill hoses hold house pressure around the clock, and shutting the hot and cold valves removes the only thing that turns a hose failure into a flood. Doing it after every single load is ideal but nobody keeps that up, which is why a single-lever valve that closes both lines at once, or a leak-sensing auto-shutoff, is worth installing. Whatever you choose, know where your home water main is too.

Does a high-efficiency washer need special detergent?

Yes, use detergent marked HE. High-efficiency washers use a fraction of the water of old top-loaders, so a standard sudsing detergent produces far more foam than the machine can rinse away. That leftover suds coats the drum and gasket, feeds odor, and can trip error codes. Use the small dose the cap or pod is sized for, not more, since extra detergent does not clean better. If you already have buildup, run a tub-clean cycle with no clothes and no soap to flush it.

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