Dryer vent maintenance checklist
Updated August 2026
The vent duct needs one full clean-out a year, tightening to every 6 months for big households, pets, or a long run to the exterior. A clogged vent roughly doubles your dry times and is the leading cause of dryer fires, so the other rule is a build one: swap any ribbed foil or vinyl flex for smooth rigid metal duct, which sheds lint instead of catching it. A DIY brush kit runs about $20–40; a pro cleaning is $100–200.
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Watch the exterior hood flap open while running | Monthly | 2 min · DIY |
| Feel for strong, warm airflow at the outlet | Monthly | 1 min · DIY |
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Brush and vacuum the duct from dryer to exterior | 12 months (6 for pets or long runs) | $20–40 DIY / $100–200 pro |
| Clear lint packed around the exterior hood | 6–12 months | 5 min · DIY |
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Replace foil or vinyl flex with rigid metal duct | One-time | $20–60 DIY |
| Shorten, straighten, and foil-tape the run | One-time | 30 min · DIY |
What neglect costs
A blocked duct is expensive in three directions at once. It traps heat and lint against the dryer, and that is precisely the condition US fire agencies point to as the number-one cause of dryer fires. It chokes airflow, so a load that should finish in 45 minutes runs two cycles and drives your power bill up for the same laundry. And the trapped heat cooks the dryer's own heating element and thermal fuse, turning a cleaning you skipped into a repair. If the vent dumps into an attic or crawlspace instead of outside, add moisture damage and mold to the tally.
Leave these to a pro
Hire out the runs you cannot safely reach or fully brush. A duct that exits through the roof, travels 25 feet or more, or turns several elbows is a job for a tech with a rotary brush and a vacuum, typically $100–200. Get a pro involved too if the vent is not actually venting outdoors, since rerouting it to an exterior wall or roof cap is not a patch job. Very long runs sometimes need a booster fan, installed, to move air the whole distance; that is an electrician-plus-HVAC call, not a weekend fix.
This whole checklist ships as reminders in OnOtto: every task above, on the right schedule for your home, snooze-proof.
Load this checklist as remindersFrequently asked questions
Can I clean a dryer vent myself?
Usually yes, if the run is short and reachable. A vent-brush kit ($20–40) chucks into a drill and screws together to snake the full duct. Unplug the dryer or shut the gas, pull it out, disconnect the flex hose, then brush from the dryer end and again from the outside hood, vacuuming lint as it loosens. Reconnect, run the dryer on air-fluff, and confirm strong airflow at the exterior flap. Save the pro for rooftop exits, runs over 25 feet, or vents with several turns.
Is rigid metal duct really better than foil flex?
Yes, and codes agree. Smooth rigid or semi-rigid metal duct gives lint nothing to snag on and will not sag or crush the way ribbed foil and plastic flex do; those flexible types trap lint in every ridge and are a known fire risk, which is why most codes bar them inside walls. If you must use flex for the short transition behind the dryer, use the metal semi-rigid kind, keep it as short and straight as possible, and replace it when it dents or clogs.
How long can a dryer vent run be?
Shorter is always better, and most codes cap a straight run at about 25 to 35 feet, then subtract roughly 5 feet for every 90-degree elbow. A 30-foot duct with three tight turns can effectively be at its limit before you add an inch. Long or twisty runs collect lint faster, so if yours pushes those numbers, clean it every 6 months and consider a straighter path or a booster fan. Confirm the far end blows freely by watching the exterior flap open while it runs.
What are the signs of a blocked dryer vent?
Clothes still damp after a full cycle is the classic tell, along with a dryer top that feels unusually hot, a burning or musty smell, and lint blowing out around the exterior hood. If the outdoor flap barely moves while the dryer runs, air is not getting through. You may also see the run-time creep up week over week as lint accumulates. Any of these means clean the duct now rather than at the next yearly mark, and check that it still vents to the outside.