Should you repair or replace your well pump?
Updated August 2026
← Every repair-or-replace call
Replace a submersible well pump rather than repair it any time the pump has to come out of the well past year 10, because the pull alone costs $800–2,000. Above ground the story flips, and the cheap parts deserve the first look: a pressure switch is $75–200 installed, and a run capacitor or control box lands in the same territory. A new submersible with the pull, wire, and pipe included runs $1,000–2,500, and pumps last 8–15 years submersible, longer for a jet pump on a shallow well. With the rig on site the labor is already spent, so an old pump only goes back down if you enjoy paying for the same trip twice.
The short version
Split the system in your head at the well cap. Everything above it, the pressure switch, control box, capacitor, and wiring, is cheap, reachable, and worth repairing at any age, and those parts cause a large share of no-water calls. Everything below it carries an $800–2,000 pull before a single component is bought, and that sunk labor drives the decision. A submersible under 7 years can justify going back down; one at 10 or more should be replaced while the drop pipe is lying on the ground. One trap catches people regularly: a pump that starts and stops every few seconds is usually reporting a waterlogged pressure tank, and a new pump does not fix that. Diagnose the tank before authorizing anything.
Your situation, decided
| Situation | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| No water, breaker fine, switch contacts pitted | Repair | A $75–200 pressure switch is the most common well fault |
| Pump short-cycles every few seconds | Check the tank first | A waterlogged pressure tank, not a failing pump |
| Jet pump loses prime or weeps at the seal | Repair | Above-ground pumps are serviceable; seals and impellers are stocked |
| Submersible dead, pump under 7 years | Repair or replace pump | Worth pulling once; wire or a control box may be all it needs |
| Submersible dead, pump past 10 years | Replace | The $800–2,000 pull is the bill; do not send an old pump back down |
| Sand or air spitting from the taps | Diagnose the well | A dropping water level or a worn pump end; scope before spending |
What each path costs
Repairs typically run $75–400; a replacement is $1,000–2,500 installed. Submersible well pumps last 8–15 years and jet pumps 10 or more. Repair the above-ground parts at any age; once a submersible past 10 years has to be pulled, replace it. Price your own number on the home maintenance cost calculator before you commit either way.
The repair-or-replace call is easy when you know the unit's age and service history. OnOtto keeps both, plus the maintenance that delays this decision for years.
Start your home's service log, freeFrequently asked questions
Why does my well pump start and stop every few seconds?
The pressure tank, not the pump. When the bladder ruptures, the tank fills with water and loses its air cushion, so the pump satisfies the switch instantly, shuts off, then restarts the moment a tap opens. That rapid cycling is what burns out motors and pressure switches, which makes it worth fixing the week you notice it. Check the air charge at the Schrader valve on top of the tank; if water sprays out instead of air, the tank needs replacing and the pump is innocent.
What does it cost to pull a well pump?
$800–2,000 before any parts, driven by depth and access. A pump set at 100 feet can sometimes come up by hand with two people, while one at 400 feet needs a rig, and the drop pipe, safety rope, and wire all come up with it. Because that labor is identical whether the pump is old or new, it is the reason a 10-year-old pump gets replaced on the way up. Ask for the amp draw and the insulation resistance reading before authorizing the pull.
What can I check before calling a well contractor?
Four things, in order. Confirm the breaker is on and has not tripped at the panel. Read the pressure gauge: zero means no pump output, while 50 psi and no water at the tap points to a valve or a clog. Look at the pressure switch for pitted or burned contacts, a $75–200 part, and leave the 240-volt work to a pro. Then listen at the well head for the pump kicking on. A routine test makes those readings meaningful.
Is a constant-pressure pump worth the upgrade?
Worth it when the pump is already being replaced and the house has several bathrooms or irrigation. A variable-speed constant-pressure system runs $1,800–3,500 installed against $1,000–2,500 for a conventional pump, and it holds steady pressure instead of swinging between cut-in and cut-out. It also cycles far less, which is easy on the motor. If your current setup delivers acceptable pressure and the pump still has years left, there is no reason to pull it early.