How often should you service a well pump?
Updated July 2026
Have your well system checked every 1 to 2 years, covering pump pressure, motor amp draw, and the standing water level in the well, and test the water quality every year. Wells are unregulated, so nobody else is watching them. Catching a short-cycling pump or a failing pressure switch early is what keeps a small $200–450 part from cascading into a burned-out pump, an $800–2,500 replacement, and the days without running water that come with an unplanned failure.
What changes the interval
| Your situation | Interval | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Standard 40/60 psi system | Full check every 1–2 years | Confirms cut-in, cut-out, amp draw, and tank charge |
| Water quality (bacteria, nitrate) | Test every year | Wells are unregulated and contamination is invisible |
| Pump kicks on and off rapidly | Service now | Short-cycling points to a waterlogged tank or bad switch |
| Faucets sputter and spit air | Service now | Air means a dropping water level or a suction-side leak |
| Well over 20 years old or shallow | Check yearly | Older and shallow wells need a closer watch |
| Pressure tank feels light or cycles fast | Set the air charge now | Charge should sit about 2 psi below the cut-in pressure |
The cost of skipping it
What skipping it costs: the pressure tank is what protects the pump, and when its air bladder fails the pump short-cycles, flicking on and off until the motor burns out. Left alone, a $200–450 tank problem becomes an $800–2,500 pump job plus a scramble for water. A yearly water test ($50–150) also catches the coliform or nitrate a well can develop with nothing you would taste or see. Skipping routine service is how both problems stay hidden until they are expensive.
How to do it (20 minutes DIY checks · pro service $150–300)
- Watch the pressure gauge through one cycle: note where the pump cuts in and cuts out (commonly 40 and 60 psi).
- Count the cycles during a short water draw; a pump that starts and stops several times per minute is short-cycling.
- Check the pressure tank by tapping it: a hollow ring up top and a solid, dull sound below is normal; solid throughout means it is waterlogged.
- With the pump off and tank drained, read the tank air charge at the top valve; it should sit about 2 psi below the cut-in pressure.
- Collect a water sample and send it for a yearly bacteria and nitrate test, more often after flooding or nearby work.
- For amp-draw, water-level, and switch checks, book a pro every 1–2 years, and plan ahead for eventual pump replacement.
Knowing the interval is the easy half. OnOtto reminds you at the right interval, and it won't let you snooze it into next year. Tasks persist until they're done, and completing well pump service schedules the next one automatically.
Put this on autopilot, free for 30 daysFrequently asked questions
What does a well pump service actually include?
A technician checks the pressure switch cut-in and cut-out settings, measures the pump's amp draw against its rating (a rising draw signals a struggling motor), inspects and recharges the pressure tank, and often gauges the well's water level and recovery rate. Many also test water quality and look over the wiring and wellhead seal. The visit catches wear before it becomes failure, and it typically runs $150–300 depending on how much testing you include.
How do I check the pressure tank air charge myself?
Cut power to the pump, then open a faucet or the tank drain to empty it of water. With the tank empty, put a tire gauge on the air valve (usually a Schrader valve on top). The reading should be about 2 psi below your pump's cut-in pressure, so roughly 38 psi on a 40/60 system. Add air with a bike or air pump if it reads low. A tank that holds no air charge has a failed bladder and needs replacing.
How often should I test well water, and for what?
Test at least once a year for coliform bacteria and nitrate, the two most common and health-relevant contaminants, and retest after any flooding, new nearby construction, a change in taste, color, or odor, or a pump or well repair. Every few years, run a broader panel that includes pH, hardness, iron, manganese, and any local concerns like arsenic or radon. Because no agency monitors a private well, that yearly test is your only early warning.
Can I service the well pump myself or is it a pro job?
The routine checks are DIY: reading the pressure gauge, counting cycles, testing and recharging the pressure tank, and collecting a water sample. Those cover most of what goes wrong. Pulling a submersible pump, measuring amp draw safely, adjusting the pressure switch, and diagnosing a dropping water level are pro work, since they involve high voltage and heavy equipment. A good split is DIY monitoring between professional checkups every one to two years.