What does a failed GFCI outlet cost you?
Updated August 2026
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A GFCI outlet is the $15–30 device that cuts power in a fraction of a second to keep a shock from becoming an electrocution, and it can wear out and quietly stop protecting you with no outward sign at all. That silent failure is the whole point of this page: a dead GFCI looks and works like a normal outlet right up until the moment a hair dryer hits the sink water and there is nothing to trip. The only way to know it still works is the test button, and a unit that will not trip and reset is a $15–30 do-it-yourself swap or a $120–200 electrician visit.
The escalation ladder
Every row below is the same leak, left a little longer. The top is a cheap warning; the bottom is a claim.
| What happens | Typical bill | How fast |
|---|---|---|
| You press the test button and it trips and resets cleanly | $0, one minute a month | Monthly |
| A worn GFCI fails the test and you swap it yourself | $15–30 for the outlet | Same day |
| An electrician replaces it or traces a downstream fault | $120–200 | One visit |
| A dead GFCI kills every outlet downstream of it | A day chasing a phantom power outage | Until diagnosed |
| A failed GFCI leaves a wet-area circuit unprotected | A shock or electrocution near water | Any time it is used |
Warning signs
A failing GFCI tells on itself in a few ways. A TEST button that does nothing, a RESET that will not stay in, and a face that is cracked, warm, or discolored all mean the outlet is done and should be replaced. A cluster of dead outlets in a kitchen, bath, or garage is often not a big electrical problem at all, it is one tripped or failed GFCI upstream cutting power to everything wired after it. Buzzing from the outlet and an outdoor unit sitting without a weatherproof cover are two more red flags. Nuisance tripping is its own puzzle, sorted in why a GFCI keeps tripping and why one will not reset.
The prevention math
The whole prevention plan is a one-minute habit. Press the TEST button on each GFCI monthly; the RESET should pop out and power should cut, then RESET restores it. If it does not trip, or will not reset, replace it, a $15–30 outlet for a confident DIYer or $120–200 with an electrician. Outdoor and garage units live harder lives, so give them weatherproof in-use covers and test them the same way. Set against a shock near water, a monthly button press is the best trade in the house. The replacement interval is in how often to replace a GFCI outlet, with how long a GFCI outlet lasts.
Every line in that table starts with a skipped 10-minute task. OnOtto keeps the 10-minute version on your calendar so the $2,000 version never happens.
Get the nudge before the billFrequently asked questions
How do I test a GFCI outlet?
Plug in a lamp or a small device and switch it on, then press the TEST button. The RESET button should pop out, the outlet should lose power, and the lamp should go dark. Press RESET and power should return. If pressing TEST does nothing, or RESET will not stay in, the GFCI has failed and needs replacing. Do this monthly on every GFCI in kitchens, baths, garages, and outdoors, the mechanism can wear out silently between tests.
How often should GFCI outlets be replaced?
Replace a GFCI whenever it fails the monthly test, and proactively around the 10–15-year mark since the protective circuitry degrades with age and surges. Outdoor and garage units in damp, temperature-swinging spots often wear out sooner. A newer self-testing GFCI checks itself automatically and flags a fault with a light, which is worth choosing on replacement. See how often to replace a GFCI outlet for the age and condition triggers.
Why will my GFCI outlet not reset?
A GFCI that will not reset is usually either doing its job, sensing a real ground fault downstream, or has failed internally. Unplug everything on the circuit and try again; if it resets, one of the devices was leaking current. If it still will not reset with nothing plugged in, the outlet itself or the wiring is at fault. No power to the outlet at all points upstream. Our page on a GFCI that will not reset walks it through.
Where are GFCI outlets required?
GFCI protection is required anywhere water and electricity can meet: kitchens near the counters, bathrooms, garages, unfinished basements, crawl spaces, laundry areas, and all outdoor receptacles. The idea is to protect the spots where a person is likely to be grounded, standing on damp concrete or near a sink, when a fault occurs. If an older home lacks GFCIs in these areas, adding them is an inexpensive and high-value safety upgrade at $15–30 per outlet in parts.