What's on a well water system checklist?
Updated August 2026
A private well runs on one water test a year for bacteria and nitrates, a pressure-tank and pump check (most systems cut on and off around 40/60 psi), and shock chlorination whenever a test comes back dirty or after a flood. Nobody else is watching your water quality, so the yearly lab test is the non-negotiable part. Well pumps last 8 to 15 years and pressure tanks 5 to 10, and catching a waterlogged tank early is what keeps the pump from burning out ahead of schedule.
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Test for coliform bacteria and nitrates | Yearly | $50–150 lab |
| Check the pump cut-in and cut-out pressure | Yearly | 10 min · DIY |
| Verify the pressure-tank air charge (2 psi below cut-in) | Yearly | 15 min · DIY |
| Inspect the well cap and seal for gaps or damage | Yearly | 10 min · DIY |
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Test for metals, hardness, and local contaminants | 3–5 years | $150–300 lab |
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Shock-chlorinate after a positive bacteria test or repair | As needed | $50 DIY / $200+ pro |
| Retest after flooding, a repair, or a new taste or odor | After events | $50–150 lab |
| Task | Interval | Effort |
|---|---|---|
| Plan for pump replacement (tanks last 5 to 10 years) | 8–15 years | $800–2,500 |
What neglect costs
Well water can carry coliform bacteria, nitrates, arsenic, or radon with no change in taste, smell, or color, which is exactly why the yearly test matters; high nitrates are especially dangerous for infants. Skip testing and a problem stays invisible until someone gets sick. A waterlogged pressure tank causes its own damage: the pump short-cycles, snapping on and off dozens of times an hour, and burns out years early. A $50 test and a five-minute pressure check head off both.
Leave these to a pro
Pulling and replacing a submersible pump that sits a hundred feet or more down the casing is pro work, running $800 to $2,500 with labor depending on depth. A well contractor also handles pressure-switch and control-box faults and a proper shock chlorination if the DIY dose does not clear a bacteria hit. Send water samples to a state-certified lab rather than trusting a hardware-store strip; only a lab result tells you whether the water is safe. Budget the pump swap ahead of time with the cost calculator.
This whole checklist ships as reminders in OnOtto: every task above, on the right schedule for your home, snooze-proof.
Load this checklist as remindersFrequently asked questions
How often should you test well water?
Test for coliform bacteria and nitrates at least once a year, and retest any time the water changes taste, smell, or color, after flooding, or following a repair that opened the system. Add a broader panel for metals, arsenic, and hardness every 3 to 5 years, or sooner if a neighbor's well shows a problem. Follow the full testing schedule and always use a certified lab.
What pressure should my well system run at?
Most homes are set to a 40/60 psi range: the pump kicks on at 40 and off at 60. The bladder pressure tank should be charged to about 2 psi below the cut-in, so roughly 38 psi for a 40/60 switch, measured with the system drained. If the tank has lost its air charge it fills with water and the pump short-cycles. Check both once a year with a tire gauge.
How do you shock-chlorinate a well?
Shock chlorination clears bacteria by circulating a strong chlorine solution through the well and plumbing, letting it sit several hours to overnight, then flushing until the chlorine is gone. It is the standard fix after a positive coliform test or a repair that exposed the system. Getting the dose and contact time right matters, so follow the shock chlorination steps and retest a week or two later to confirm it worked.