Should you repair or replace your metal roof?
Updated August 2026
← Every repair-or-replace call
On a metal roof the answer is repair nearly every time, because fasteners, seam sealant, and flashing cost $300–1,500 against $10,000–30,000 for a full reroof. Metal panels do not wear out the way shingles do. What ages is everything holding them down and sealing them: the neoprene washers under exposed screws, the butyl tape in the seams, and the boots and flashings at penetrations. Those are consumables with a 10–20 year service life on a system designed for 40–70 years. Replacement earns its keep only when the panels themselves rust through or the factory coating has chalked off across the whole roof.
The short version
Separate the panels from the parts that hold them down. An exposed-fastener roof carries several hundred to a few thousand screws, each with a rubber washer that hardens and shrinks after 10–20 years of sun, and re-screwing an average house with oversized fasteners costs $800–2,500 and resets that clock. It is the most common metal-roof service there is. Standing-seam roofs hide their clips, so their failures show up at penetrations and end laps instead. Measured against a $10,000–30,000 reroof, repairs almost never reach half. Two conditions do force replacement: perforating rust, which usually starts at the eave, at panel laps, or on a roof in salt air, and a coating that has weathered through to bare metal across the field. At that point paint will not save the panels.
Your situation, decided
| Situation | Verdict | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Screws backing out or washers cracked, panels sound | Repair | Re-fasten with oversized screws for $800–2,500 |
| Leak at a pipe boot, chimney, or valley flashing | Repair | A $300–1,500 detail fix on a roof with decades left |
| Seam sealant dried out on a standing-seam roof | Repair | Re-seal the laps and penetrations; panels are unaffected |
| Surface rust spots with no perforation | Repair (prime and coat) | Wire-brush, prime, and coat at roughly $1–3 per square foot |
| Rust holes at the eaves or at panel laps | Replace those panels | Perforated steel is past sealing; swap the affected panels |
| Coating weathered to bare metal across the whole roof | Replace | Field-wide coating failure is the one true end of life |
| Hail dented the panels but nothing leaks | Repair or leave it | Cosmetic on most gauges; file the claim before touching it |
What each path costs
Repairs typically run $300–1,500; a replacement is $10,000–30,000 installed. Metal roofs run 40–70 years, but exposed fasteners and their neoprene washers only last 10–20. Budget one re-screwing and re-sealing pass mid-life, not a reroof. Price your own number on the home maintenance cost calculator before you commit either way.
The repair-or-replace call is easy when you know the unit's age and service history. OnOtto keeps both, plus the maintenance that delays this decision for years.
Start your home's service log, freeFrequently asked questions
How often should metal-roof screws be checked?
Inspect the fasteners every 5 years and plan a full re-screwing somewhere between year 15 and 25 on an exposed-fastener roof. The screw itself is usually fine; the neoprene washer under the head hardens, shrinks, and lets water follow the shank. Look for washers that are cracked or squeezed out sideways, screws standing proud of the panel, and rust streaks running down from a head. A re-fastening pass uses slightly larger-diameter screws so they bite fresh metal. Put it on your metal roof routine so the date does not drift.
Can a metal roof be coated instead of replaced?
Yes, and it is often the smart middle option. An elastomeric or acrylic roof coating runs about $1–3 per square foot, so $2,000–6,000 on a typical house, and it adds 10–15 years while cutting attic heat. Prep decides the result: pressure-wash off the chalk, wire-brush and prime any rust, re-seal the seams and fastener heads, then coat. Skipping the wash is why coatings peel. A coating cannot save panels that are already perforated, so check the eaves for rust-through first, because those panels need swapping either way.
Can new metal go over my old shingles?
Often yes, and it saves $1,000–3,000 in tear-off and dump fees. Most codes allow a single layer-over, and installers add furring strips or a slip sheet so the shingle ridges do not telegraph through the panels. Two things have to check out first. The deck and rafters must be sound, since rotten sheathing under new metal is a hidden problem you just paid to cover. And the assembly needs ventilation so moisture does not get trapped between layers. If the roof already carries two layers of shingles, tear off.
Is hail damage a reason to replace metal panels?
Usually not functionally. Dents in 26-gauge steel are cosmetic and the roof stays watertight, though thinner 29-gauge panels can dent deeply enough to fracture the coating, which then rusts. Aluminum dents more easily than steel. Photograph the damage and file the insurance claim before any repair, since many policies exclude cosmetic-only damage on metal while covering panels with a broken finish. If the claim pays, replacing the affected panels beats replacing the roof: a 40–70 year roof does not end over dents.